Shoreline limited
Sep. 10th, 2011 09:12 pmLast Friday, I took a shoreline trip on my bike, heading to Nut Island in Quincy, then back north along the coast. It was 47 miles when I mapped it out, but what with detours and wrong turns I ended up riding 52.2 miles, which is the first time I've ever broken 50 miles in a single day. (That's the view from Nut Island, above. Long way from home!) My lifetime mileage (that is, since I acquired my GPS in May) passed 1000 miles during the trip, too, so it was a double milestone. Woot. Here's a map.
The first half of the ride was harrowing — I rode through Dorchester and Roxbury, which are not the happiest places in Boston, and then found the Neponset Bridge rising ahead of me. Ordinarily (and according to Google), the bridge has a separate bike lane, but the bridge is undergoing construction, and has narrowed to a single narrow, busy lane in each direction, edged in construction cones and concrete barriers. It curves, too, so there was no way to see how far it extended. But it was the only way to get across the Neponset River, without going six miles out of my way, so I put my head down and took the lane, leading a parade of angry cars for the three-quarters of a mile it took to find a turnoff. Then I did it all over again to get back.
Nut Island was nice enough, but probably not worth the anxiety of getting there — just a green little nub of land with a long fishing pier and lovely views of the harbor islands. Hough's Neck, which it sits at the tip of, was quintessential New England, chock-full of marshes and crowded houses and speed bumps (I counted nine on one block). I sat on the pier and ate my energy snax and watched a team of Greeks with visible buttcracks land a two-foot bluefish; while it lay gasping on the concrete two Japanese kids rode up on bikes, and they watched it expire with awe on their faces. "That must hurt." They wore ladybug helmets with bobbling antennae.
The ride became purely pleasant just before UMass. I rode past the JFK Library, designed by I.M. Pei, all glass and soaring concrete, with Kennedy's little sailboat the Victura parked outside. Then I followed the Harborwalk to the causeway around Pleasure Bay to Castle Island. Castle Island is home to Fort Independence, the star-shaped fort you see when you fly into Logan, and it's much bigger from the ground — bluff stone walls tower over the green and all the people picnicking there. Then I rode through crumbling dockyards to Boston Harbor, where I watched harbor seals bobbing at the Aquarium, and finally followed the Charles back home.
I enjoyed poking into all the little marshland parks and beaches along my route. One I stumbled across only because I took a wrong turn: Moswetust Hummock, a nondescript wooded area surrounded by egretted marshes. Moswetust Hummock was the seat of Chief Chickatawbut, sachem of the local tribes in 1621, and Myles Standish and Squanto came from Plymouth to treat with him there. "Moswetuset" means "arrowhead-shaped hill," and the local Indian tribe took their name from it. What other well-known name ultimately derives from this hummock I leave as an exercise for the reader.
I took some photos. ( This way to the great egress! )
More photos available in my cycling set on Flickr.